"It was the most fun collection I've done," said Tisci after the show. "It's real," he said. It was - and it was also quite possibly one of his best collections too. Tisci had intended to look back through the Givenchy archive but decided instead to look into his own, which led him to revisit his own signatures - shapes and prints - as well as take inspiration from gypsy and Victoriana dress and the idea of borrowing men's clothing.
So out came the most brilliant of leather motorbike jackets that started out worn as normal but then navigated to being items all of their own sitting specifically down on the waist as though they had been tied around it, unzipping as they went. It was a great and clever riff. "I wanted to do them differently this time," he said of his new deconstructed garment.
But the jackets also came with florals fading into them, roses which then spread out onto flannel lumberjack shirts for a beautiful urban and street take on the Givenchy wardrobe. Keeping it, as he said, real.
Sweatshirts featured Bambi and shark jaws motifs and patchworks, and came belted, long sheer skirts trailing below - while more biker jackets and bombers were teamed with flamenco ruffles of skirts in shades of autumn leaves (rust, orange, red and yellow), moody reds and purple to make for a sensual and seductive colour palette.
Toggle coats, too, gave a grounding to the collection - all the pieces in it wearable, humble even, items but reinvented in the most articulate way to once again convey Tisci's pure vision and his ability to make everything he touches beautiful. But it wasn't beautiful in the sense that it was pretty, for these clothes came with serious gusto and had something punky about them too.
Huge applause all round at the end was a double whammy - for Antony and the Johnsons which so perfectly captivated the emotion of the collection and of course for the collection itself. A Sunday night has never been so good.
elleuk.com and vogue.co.uk
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