The designer this morning presented a collection that drew upon her Savile Row background and pulled it to the fore - "redirecting lines," as she said to play with and manipulate lapels in all sorts of different new ways. On an oversized blazer jacket there was just one sweeping down from the neck, while elsewhere they made for a halterneck or bustier detailing. It was a clever way to work the masculine into the feminine.
"Women have a masculine side and if you tap into that you find another part of yourself," said the designer backstage, something she said she was reinforcing with her shape-shifting lapels.
"These are the things I do, traditional and effortless, my Savile Row background, this was paying homage to those elements and Britain," she summed up of this collection, one she was happy to tell everyone backstage - which included Jessica Alba and Natalia Vodianova - that she wanted to wear all of, so much so that her current wardrobe was receiving a substantial de-clutter.
"It's about being honest to what we are, timeless classics but also inserting a femininity," she said. And all the Stella classics were there - the menswear fabrics for an extensive coat selection; the sportier side for easy sweatshirts, sweatshirt dresses (all of which came in pinstripe), and jumpsuits; and that sense of ease.
But where last season it had been a breezy and light outing, this time round everything was a lot heavier - from those fabrics to the drowning proportions of coats and jackets (that redefining and repositioning of lines at play here). There was a continuation of the shoulder-wrapping trend that we saw at Jean Paul Gaultier and which we saw again at Celine yesterday. And we saw bandeau necklines, as we have been seeing this fashion season, make an appearance too.
Of all the masculine-feminine mixes we've been seeing this season, this collection had a clever new take and it was all very Stella.
elleuk.com and vogue.co.uk
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