WHY go out when you can stay in? That's the very seductive idea that Marc Jacobs was posing this morning at Louis Vuitton.
"All dressed up and nowhere to go," joked the designer backstage after
his show - a genius hotel setting that saw the models step out from the
doors of a faux corridor three by three and do their lap before
returning back from whence they came - and a peak of the life this woman
may or may not be leading was glimpsed.
"She's so many different women, there's a certain decadence, she likes
luxury, she's kind of bored. It's a mix of many eras, there's some
Gloria Swanson and a lot Hollywood. It's friends of mine who were in the
show but who will remain nameless," he explained of the
romantic, erotic and more glamorous mood this season - and of his pal
Kate Moss who walked especially for the show's finale (and with whom he
confessed to spending many a night in hotel rooms having fun - instead
of going out).
"Everything is about reaction, so we were thinking what we can do now
after the geometry and no emotion of last season," he went on. So this
was a wander into whimsical subversion by way of femme fatales, suburban
house wives and Hitchcock heroines all in one.
And we were
stepping specifically into their boudoir for inspiration - for chemise
dresses and slips in plaids and tweeds, gently being eaten away by the
elegance of lace; men's coats turned into bathrobes with pink marabou
feathers flustering away inside - more feathers descended on hems and
others encased cuffs; satin pyjama suits in pretty floral prints;
long-length tea dresses in antique shades and black lace and which
crossed over on the bust; and belted skirtsuits that came demure in
length but flashed enough flesh with their sizeable slits.
It was a soft yet at times suitably sinister palette - lilacs and blush,
indigo and maroons, all perfect to convey this idea of reality and
fantasy converging and here it did so with more of those menswear
daywear coats, sequins diffusing up them, a seamless portrayal of the
collision of boredom and luxury.
To the backdrop of Alexandre Desplat from Terrence Malick's The Tree of Life, it was emotional and beautiful - and with that set, a sense of voyeurism couldn't be escaped.
Jacobs
is obviously feeling more "grown-up" this season - his own mainline too
took a leaf out of this decadent and romantic, "ladylike" book. This
designer is asking us to indulge next season - and sometimes staying in
is actually just the way to do that, hotel or no hotel.
http://www.vogue.co.uk/
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