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Monday, May 27, 2013

Celine - Autumn/Winter 2013-14

TO be able to go from a mink coat to a £1 shopping bag in one look is quite the extraordinary thing to do. And it's what Phoebe Philo, LVMH's star girl, did today - showing a Celine collection that added a new layer of femininity and refinement to last season's confident outing.


It was insanely elegant and very clever, the designer showing her extreme diversity and with it, that whatever she does she does with focus, the taste level always remaining so high - even when it is a woven bag you'd use to go to the laundrette now reinvented as a high-neck and loose jumper, coat and fluted knee-length skirt.
But it's her focus that enables such magic to happen - a concise underpinning aesthetic that reins all these things back into being Celine. Even jewellery - usually the fashion purist's no-go - featured here with little silver bands to define cuffs at wrists and little be-baubled chokers worn two at a time at the neck.

There was a continuation of the shoulder wrapping and restraint we saw last time round and there were beautiful grey cardigan capes that knotted at the front as if they were separate garments, but they weren't.
Shapes were of course serene and soft, gorgeous coats of peach and pink and gently ballooning proportions and jumpers that were shorter at the front than they were at the back in slate and navy. Pockets seamlessly plunged and disappeared into dresses and a series of coats towards the end that came dotted with fluffed detail. Again, a little more ornate for Philo.


















It was considered yet so effortless - again two extremes but which in the hands of Philo and her supreme level of elegance and focus were seamlessly united.
elleuk.com and vogue.co.uk

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