EVERYONE loves a bit of subversion, especially Frida Giannini for Gucci
this season, who continued the Hitchcock drama we saw start in New York
with Marc Jacobs and play out in London at Jonathan Saunders, with a
collection that combined demure and ladylike silhouettes with the fetish
aesthetics of Allen Jones.
It was a tactile, tough and sexy collection -
more overt and gritty in its tactics than last season's Seventies
louche and loose attitude.
Giannini summed it up best in the show notes: "The Gucci woman
seduces with her dangerous femininity. She is steely yet sexy - defining
her discipline with femme fatale vices." Now that's quite the set of
fashion rules to be playing with. And this woman was definitely playing
with them in leather and exotic skin skirt suits that pinched the waist
just as they should and gave way to lean and tight pencil skirts below.
The silhouette said elegant but the renderings said tough: crackled
leather, patent, python, a reworking of the Prince of Wales check into
something vivid and slightly haunting.
It was harsh and sexy and
these women in their plunging V-neckline svelte dresses, high
neck-and-tight jacket combinations, and waist-lined dresses somehow
managed to make it prim just as much as they did dangerous - Hitchcock
heroines let loose in The Matrix future.
But there wasn't
just one message here - it was birdy too: feathers forming at the
shoulder and down the sleeves of oversized and masculine jackets - or on
rounded-shoulder dresses to begin with. The idea however really took
flight for the eveningwear - which as a category of clothing has had a
strong presence in all cities so far - which was feathered and
embellished and turned the Gucci woman into her very own avian dream.
Lilac,
turquoise and pink, flusters of feathers cascaded down skirts or
splayed on arms from mesh and lace, silky skirts of long and short
length or trousers for a jumpsuit take beneath. A contrast to the rest
of the collection for its light and delicate treatments, the eveningwear
was still just as cinematic and as a result cohesively joined the dots -
the femme fatale in all her many Gucci incarnations.
Source: vogue.co.uk
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